The mild climate of Sanremo has been appreciated since the 1800’s, when northern Europe’s aristocracy and royalty started to make their way down to the Mediterranean coast between December and April. From Cannes to Imperia, palatial nineteenth century villas, surrounded by stunning gardens, take full advantage of the climate to show off exotic and luxuriant blooms.
The hillsides of the Riviera were covered in greenhouses to grow hot-house plants and cut flowers for northern Europe. In time the French Riviera abandoned the hothouses for real estate, and Sanremo became the flower production capital of Europe, with a major industry growing roses, broom, mimosa, carnations and violets. The surrounding hills are covered in glittering glass, while Sanremo, capital of the Riviera dei Fiori, takes pride in its luxurious display of flowers.
Coming from Nice airport (55km away), drive fast down the motorway or amble along the coastal road, and enter western Sanremo along the Roman via Aurelia which becomes the grand avenue Corso dell’Imperatrice, lined with the swaying palms donated by the Tsarina Maria Alexandrovna in 1874. The Mediterranean lies to the right, while to the left tower the grand hotels of the Belle Époque (Astoria West End, Londra, Miramare, Grand Hotel des Anglais…) culminating in the white wedding cake of a building – the Casino.
At the end of the Corso dell’Imperatrice, just before the Casino and the turning to the Corso degli Inglese, is the tourist office (tel: 0184 590059), located in the former Riviera Palace Hotel (built 1903). Corso degli Inglese is a winding avenue climbing the hills lined with large private villas set in verdant gardens such as the Villa Bel Respiro; Castle Devachan (no. 470, where the International Conference of the Straits was held in 1920, now divided into apartments, some of which are available for holiday lets); Villa Virginia (no. 452) and Villa Fiorentina.
From 1872, tourists travelled by train, looking out of the windows at the dazzling blue sea and smelling the perfume of citrus fruits, before arriving in Sanremo station between the Casino and the harbour and near all the main hotels. Nowadays the trains arrive after a long underground journey in a startlingly modern station east of the town centre, and unfortunately further from the tourist office and the centre of town. Take the 14 U trolley bus to cross quickly from east to west Sanremo.
Many tourists are attracted by Sanremo’s Casino, and this influx of money helps to boost the local economy and provide welcome customers for the stylish boutiques and restaurants. The building was opened in 1905, and hosts around 360,000 visitors a year. At night it is lit up and the surrounding streets are full of visitors, smart cars and cafés playing lively music. According to the Baedeker Riviera guide in 1930,
“…gambling incomparably reigns in San Remo. There are people who really look like …they want to be ruined by gambling, and prefer to stake their finances in San Remo rather than in Montecarlo. Yes, because if you lose in San Remo, you lose it elegantly, in a respectable way”.
You’ll need to dress up (no shorts and T shirts) to enter the gaming rooms and there is a charge of 7.50euros to enter Friday to Sunday. The slot machines have a different entrance with no restrictions or entrance charge.
Behind the Casino lies the incongruous Orthodox Russian Church, with its cluster of colourful, exotic onion domes, consecrated in 1913. Look out too for the neo-Gothic Villa Noseda, next to the Casino, once belonged to a German baron (Adolfo Thien), while the beautiful art-nouveau Villa Angerer in via Fratelli Asquasciati, was the home of an Austrian (Leopold Angerer). As with all the houses from this era, look out for the beautiful decorations under the eaves.
Shopping is definitely one reason to come to Sanremo. On Saturdays and Tuesdays there is a large market in the Piazza Eroi Sanremesi, not far from San Síro Cathedral. Located around the watch tower ‘Torre della Ciapèla’ (all that is left of the old towns’ defensive walls after town planning in the 1930’s). The market is full of stylish leather bags, made-to-measure belts, shoes and gloves; cashmere jumpers; silk scarves; a rainbow choice of pashminas; clothes, CDs; soft furnishings; ornaments; watches… Almost as much French as Italian is heard at this market as many hop across the border to buy their fashionable wardrobe at great prices. Look too at the boutiques along the pedestrian-only via Palazzo, and the grander Corso Garibaldi and via Matteoti.
Adjoining the market is the covered fruit, vegetable and fish market. Here, piled in luxuriant heaps, a splendid array of foods is there to tempt. For a picnic lunch little can be as tasty as fresh ripe tomatoes, figs and peaches or whatever fruit is in season with fresh bread and cheese – try Il Casaro on the Piazza Eroi Sanremesi, (tel 0184 502 079) for a large cheese selection.
For a traditional, simple lunch head for the Cantine Sanremesi, via Palazzo 7, (tel 0184 572063) or Da Rocco, via Marsaglia 9-11, (tel 0184 507210). Both are small so it may be advisable to reserve a table before going around the market. Traditional foods include torta di verdura (pie made from chard, pumpkin or courgettes and rice), dishes made with anchovies (pizza – sardenaira, in a soup, or fried) trombetta – long and curly trombone courgettes fried in butter and stuffed courgette flowers; farinata (the chickpea pancake of the Riviera coast); olive oil made from the local sweet taggiasca olives; rabbit and mushrooms. Seafood of all sorts is also traditional – fish, shellfish, squid and octopus and dried cod – brandacujun.
The heart of Sanremo flows around the medieval town, nicknamed La Pigna (after the pine cone which it is supposed to resemble), down towards the harbour. Despite being gradually modernised, with electricity, plumbing and paving working its way up the steep narrow lanes, the old town, with its hints of golden yellow, pink and stone walls, is still un-gentrified and untouched by tourism. There are a few local grocers (look out for the bags of baci di Sanremo – rich chocolate and hazelnut biscuits with a chocolate cream filling) and a few trattorias with only a few dishes on offer each day.
The old town preserves its network of steep and concentric circles of winding streets – many completely covered over by the buildings above, dating back to its early history before 1038 when it was under the control of the Counts of Ventimiglia, followed by the years of Genoese control. In 1544 much was destroyed by pirates, after which the old town was enlarged and strengthened.
On a hot day these narrow streets provide a cool relief. Follow the sloping roads upwards to the gardens surrounding the church of the Madonna della Costa (Our Lady of the Coast) at the summit of the hill and marvel at the view of Sanremo and sea through vistas framed by palm trees and giant rubber plants.
Cool breezes, shady benches, a small playground and wonderful views make for a stunning location for a pause or a picnic. For the more energetic, walk from here towards the small hamlet of San Romolo (2 hours away). This leads through the hills covered in greenhouses, Mediterranean scrub and luxuriant chestnut woods.
Back down on the coast, behind the old station on Piazza Cesare Battisti, lies the fort of Santa Tecla overlooking the harbour, built in 1775 after Sanremo tried to break away from the control of the Republic of Genoa in 1753. The Genoese destroyed many of the local fortifications and built this fort to keep an eye on the activities of Sanremo. The fort is one of the best examples of Ligurian military architecture of the 1700’s and until recently housed the prison. There has been talk of restoring the fort and making it open to the public, but as with La Pigna, little has yet been done to take advantage of these potential tourist attractions. Many other old buildings along the coast were destroyed during heavy bombardment in 1944.
From the fort, stroll east along the seafront to the Porto Vecchia, the old harbour, filled with sailing and fishing boats and faced by a promenade of palms, cafés and restaurants. This is a lively place for people watching, an ice cream or sipping a glass of chilled Vermentino or Pigato – the local white wines. At the end of the old harbour the road forks. To the left you can walk back up into town along a pedestrianised-street lined with restaurants, palms and orange trees.
A lively night-time atmosphere pervades the Piazza Bresca, a destination highly recommended by many guide books, but you do pay extra for the atmosphere and the fancy food. To enjoy the buzz – walk a little further on, crossing the busy Corso Garibaldi to the next pedestrian zone leading to the seventeenth century Palazzo Borea d’Olmo which houses the Civic Museum (tel: 0184 531942) on via Matteoti. Here you can enjoy the local atmosphere in a smart and trendy bar and enjoy an early evening aperitif and snacks before heading on to dinner.
Back to the harbour – follow the other road along the coast, past the remains of the old river and harbour walls. Here the restaurants along the beach appear to be just as lively, but better value – try the Ristorante Lido, Corso Trento Trieste 2 (tel: 0184 544859) on the beach, with excellent fish.
A little further on is the Morgana beach. A large modern white building with a large spiral staircase, built in the fifties, marks the entrance. This is a dream beach. Two euros per adult for half a day on golden sand, access to showers and toilets and a cheap, cheerful and remarkably good beach café. Going up to 18 euros a day, a private cabin with tables and chairs and shower plus loungers and parasols can be hired. The sea is clean and protected from the local boats, jelly fish and other intruders. The beach is open June to September. There are other beaches both sandy and rocky and many are free. Further on is the new large harbour, Porto Sole, where there are more restaurants.
Remember that many shops will not be open on Sunday – so make sure purchases are made on Saturday. Sunday is the day for relaxing either on the beach, a stroll around town, a leisurely lunch or even a boat trip (March to October) to see the local whales, dolphins and porpoises in the whale sanctuary located between Liguria and Corsica. June, July and August are the best times for viewing (see www.sanremonavigazione.com)
On a Sunday walk eastwards along the busy Corso Felice Cavallotti, past the station, to the Villas Nobel, Ormond and Zirio. On Sundays at 4 and 5pm the Villa Nobel is opened for guided tours of the house where Alfred Nobel spent the last five years of his life. The gardens of his beautiful Moorish villa used to run down to the sea, where he would practice with his explosives. Unsurprisingly the neighbours complained – so he bought them out and extended his property! The museum is fascinating both as a display of technology at the end of the nineteenth century and as a chance to view the inside of one of these grand villas. Due to the Nobel prizes being ‘created’ while he lived here, Sanremo has continued to have a close connection with Sweden. (see www.provincia.imperia.it/villanobel for events and times)
Across the road from Villa Nobel lie the Villas Zirio and Ormond. Zirio was once the holiday home of the Crown Prince Frederick of Germany (later Emperor Frederick III) while Ormond was the home of wealthy Swiss bankers. The latter is now owned by the town and hosts cultural events. Both gardens are grand and full of exotic plants from around the world; look out for the terrapins in the Ormond gardens! The road cuts the Ormond garden in two; from the lower half of the garden you can make your way back down to the coastal Corso Trento e Trieste, and stroll back into town via the Porto Sole.
Hotels in Sanremo range from the enormous grand hotels along the Corso Imperatrice, stretching westwards away from the town centre, towards the humbler hotels, many of which have seen grander days scattered around the town, but today offer basic accommodation.
Sanremo has remained a leisurely resort. There are sights to see and buildings to admire, buts its main attraction is the leisurely life – meals al fresco, the beach, promenading, a little sightseeing, some shopping and generally soaking up the atmosphere of this coastal town.
Useful Numbers
San Remo Tourist Office: www.rivieradeifiori.org, email aptfiori@rivieradeifiori.org
Casino’Sanremo Tel: 0184 5951, email:manifcas@sistel.it. www.casinosanremo.it
Trains: 6 trains a day Nice to Sanremo – but only the 11am train is direct – the others all change at Ventimiglia. It takes about 1½ hours stopping at all stations along the coast. There are also frequent trains to Limone (1½ hours away), a big ski resort.
Written June 2005
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