Tunnels and Stairs

A city with many different attractions – enough to appeal to all ages and interests – Genoa has more than enough to keep everyone occupied for a whole weekend as Elizabeth Gabay and her family discovered.

Genoa is an ugly duckling – it has none of the fashion glamour of Milan, the watery romance of Venice or the splendours of Rome and its abundant use of slate gives the town an overall grey appearance. Aristocrats on their Grand Tour of Italy during the eighteenth century usually contrived to miss out Genoa, despite its magnificent harbour and fine palaces luxuriating in the shade of orange trees.

Vias Balbi and Garibaldi are lined with palaces – too many to appreciate all the grandeur. The number of palaces even gave the city the epithet “City of Palaces” and Rubens immortalised them in his book “The Palaces of Genoa”. Spectacular entrances, imposing stairways and painted ceilings, walls and canvases seen through doorways and windows make it difficult to decide which to look at in greater detail but it is possible to wander in and out of several for a glimpse at these renaissance glories. Largely built during the sixteenth century, they were the showcases of the powerful families who ran the commercial enterprises of Genoa.

Many of these palaces are now used as offices and banks, and although this means you cannot see all the treasures close up, it is wonderful to see these palaces being used as they were intended – as thriving centres of commerce. In Palazzo Campanella, ceiling paintings illustrating the Americas reflect the owner’s patronage of the Genoese explorer, Christopher Columbus.

From the eleventh to the seventeenth centuries Genoa enjoyed wealth and power, but by the eighteenth it had lost its position of predominance to Atlantic ports, although it has continued as Italy’s main port. For many Italians leaving for the New World, the sixteenth century lighthouse, the Lanterna, and the hills of Genoa were their last sight of Italy.

Arriving in Genoa today, the port is still predominant. The airport and main station (Principe) are near the docks on the westerly side of the city. The motorway from France is infamous for going through more than one hundred tunnels and over soaring viaducts – evidence not only of great engineering but also of the inaccessibility of Genoa and the province of Liguria with its wall of mountains almost pushing it into the sea. There are more tunnels in the city itself. When Genoa expanded in the nineteenth century, spurs of land divided areas of the city, so tunnels, gallerias, were later built to link sections of town.

Once past the port, industry and tunnels, the city enchants – not as a dream city but as a real-life city. In the past there were complaints that the Genoese were preoccupied with business, that they dressed sombrely, were serious and reserved. This could almost stand true today – the city stirs early as commuters make their way to work, finishing the working day around 6pm, but, they do also enjoy life, stopping for a long lunch (many shops close for lunch too) and after work the streets are alive with Genoese strolling round the streets, shops and cafes. The many bars around the city come to life as the Genoese meet for an aperitivo and an abundant spread of nibbles before heading home or out for dinner – join in for a drink and soak up the lively social atmosphere.

With their understated sense of fashion, it is not surprising that as well as the designer shops, there are, hidden away throughout the city, dressmakers and tailors and fabric stores and shops with a vast array of classic shoes, handbags and accessories, all displaying restrained elegance.

Many shops are still housed in their old façade of curved glass, dark wood and ornate glass chandeliers. Most of Genoa is still unspoilt by tourism – tourist gift shops are rare and the city’s attractions appear to have only just been realised. The G8 conference in 2001 provided an impetuous for smartening up many run-down districts and sealing off streets for pedestrians. Being the European Capital of Culture of 2004 continued the work, as Genoa has sought to balance its maritime income with that of a cultural and tourist venue.

Hemmed in by the Apennines, the city stretches along the Ligurian coast with the wealthier suburbs climbing up into the fresher hills. The relatively flat coastal plain is only a couple of kilometres wide and is filled by the old town, industry to the west and suburbs to the east. To the north, the nineteenth century mansion blocks march up the steep foothills of the mountains – so steep that at times the road ends in a sharp cliff of high walls, with long stairways, which are not always clearly marked on the map (leg muscles will feel fit if you explore further afield!), and, most curious of all, lifts. We counted at least five – entered through long tunnels, often with beautiful art nouveau tiles, the lifts soar to streets way above. (AMT bus passes cover lifts too). The Portello Castelletto lift, which rises from the Piazza Portello to the Belvedere Montaldo, gives a good view of the old town and port. Some palazzi which nestle into the hillside even have their front door on the top floor at the back!

Elsewhere the hills are surmounted by two funicular and a cog wheel railway. We took the longest funicular journey from Largo della Zecca up the hill to Righi (our 9 year old was in seventh heaven). The track was built in 1901 and the small carriages speed up and down, giving views of surrounding villas, glimpses of old terraces and gardens before arriving literally at the edge of the city. Only 15 minutes from the busy streets we were 280m up, almost in the country – a walk through the woods took us to Forte Castellaccio, Genoa’s oldest military garrison, from where the other forts on the surrounding hills and connecting walls which protected Genoa can be seen, giving a sense of geographic perspective and panoramic views of the city below.

Genoa’s history revolves around its maritime trade. By 1100 the maritime republic of St George was created and Genoa became a formidable power coveted by foreign rulers. The port has continued as the main source of income, its docks dominate the coast and in front of the old town the harbour, the Porto Antico has been turned into a smart and modern tourist centre with much to entertain children and parents with maritime museums; a replica galleon from Roman Polanski’s film “Pirates”, the largest aquarium in Europe, the Bigi (a crane for viewing the city), cafés and shops. During the warmer months, this waterside venue is an attractive destination – in February the cold tramontana wind on the exposed harbour was bracing!

The restored Bank of St George with its beautiful wall paintings overlooks this older section of the harbour and still evokes wealth and power. Behind the Bank lies the network of narrow roads, “carrugi”, which make up the old town, apparently the largest in Italy. The western half of the old town, near the main station, is still rather shabby but is being ‘gentrified’. The north and east of the old town is now lively with shops, cafés and bars, antique emporiums, boutiques glittering with ornate Murano glassware, jewellery shops, hardware markets, grocers’ stores groaning under hunks of cheese and meats – the everyday with the luxury side by side.

We loved the grandeur of the café Klainguti (Piazza Soziglia, 98) founded by four Swiss brothers in 1828 on their way to America, who chose instead to stay in Genoa. Verdi came here during winters spent in Genoa, and smartly dressed shoppers pause by the bar for a quick espresso. Here we indulged in delicious pastries, and Italian hot chocolate – almost melted chocolate in a cup. Further up the road, at number 74, there is also Pietro Romanengo, founded in 1814, with its old shop fittings of dark wood, gilt and mirrors, enticing shoppers with artistic displays of chocolates, crystallised flowers and fruits, nut confections and little cakes. Also try Viganotti (Vico Castagna 14) for chocolates produced the same way since 1866.

The Cathedral of San Lorenzo with its ornate twelfth century black and white gothic façade is severe and imposing, a great point of reference when lost, distracted by the sights. For contrast visit the opulent baroque interior of Del Gesú on Piazza Matteoti. The smaller churches are intimate and attractive, and it is worthwhile popping in to some of these.

With so much to see, a full lunch is possibly too long, but you can eat well on the go, with a choice of panissa fritta (chickpea chips), farinata (chickpea pancake similar to the Niçoise socca), baccalá fritta (fried salt cod balls), focaccia (flavoured pizza type dough – cheese, onions, herbs) wrapped in paper and eaten hot, schiacciata (fried crispy bread) and an amazing array of pies – torte verdure – pumpkin, spinach, courgette, artichoke, swiss chard. Try Antica Sciamadda, Via San Giorgio 14R near the port or Le Dolcezze Salate, via XXV Aprile, 22R opposite the Opera.

Outside the pedestrian carrugi, a fast way around the centre of Genoa is by bus. Buy a day pass (“biglietto giornaliero”) for 3 euros (which covers bus, metro, train and lift) at a machine in a metro station or at one of the mainline train stations, and validate it when first using it. As passengers buy tickets in advance, buses are fast with rarely a long wait. Hop on and off for a rapid view of the city – exploring at will. To get a bus map, to discover hidden corners, go to the AMT office by the Piazza Dante and at the same time see the twelfth century city gates of Porta Soprana towering above the surrounding buildings.

Parking is a nightmare in Genoa, and many Genoese use motorbikes. Go through the gates to the Piazza Matteoti, where the main tourist office is located, in front of the classically fronted Ducal Palace.

Piazza de Ferrari marks the border between the old and new town, bordered by the Ducal Palace, now an arts centre, the Opera house and the grand avenue XX Settembre. This broad avenue, busy with traffic, shops and shoppers, contrasts with the quiet and narrowness of the old town. At the Piazza Ferrari end are ornate arcades, big banks and the imposing Hotel Bristol Palace. Halfway down is the Mercato Orientale, a market with a splendid display of fruit and vegetables. The other end of the avenue, towards Brignole station is less grand.

After a day exploring the town, relax with an evening at the Opera followed by a late night dinner at the tucked away Fuori Orario (“out of hours”) a ten minute walk up hill (Via Palestro 54R, +39 10 8318993). Frequented by locals, it offers typical Ligurian cuisine – paper thin slices of dried tuna, salt cod stew, pumpkin gnocchi, fried fish, pasta with pesto – fish dominates over meat, savoury over sweet, vegetables are used as fillings rather than as a course on their own.

Sunday is the day for promenading and a leisurely lunch. Take the bus (15 or 30) or train east out of the city, a 10-15 minute train ride away. The one day travel pass covers the wide area between Pegli in the west to Nervi in the east. Seaside restaurants offering Ligurian cuisine can be found along the coast: at Quatro, where Garibaldi set sail in 1860 for Sicily to unite Italy, at Quinto next door. Here it is possible to walk down to the rocky beaches and swim.

Further on is genteel Nervi, with its orange laden trees (wonderful in February when the oranges are ripe). Belle époque villas are set in large gardens, many high street facades have had their painted fronts restored and several gardens, formerly belonging to grand villas have been joined together as a large park, providing a luxuriant venue for summer arts festivals. A 2km coastal walkway, Passeggiata Anita Garibaldi, leads to the picturesque port. Restaurants can be found along the coast and around the port, such as Ristorante Thermopolium (Passeggiata A.Garibaldi, +39 10 3724465) where we enjoyed fresh fish and very attentive service overlooking the sea.

By the end of a weekend in Genoa you will have done no more than scratch the surface of what there is to see. We are already planning a return trip to see the other palazzi and villas, the restaurants we never tried, the rest of the port, the other lifts, the mountain forts and walks, the famous Staglione cemetery…

We stayed in a charming bed and breakfast located in an old mansion block just off via Assarotti. 95 euros for four of us in a family room plus childminding in the evening. Addresses for a list of B&B’s from the tourist office.

Word of caution – many budget hotels and B&B’s advertise central locations near the port and main station – can be noisy and not sure what these areas are like at night. The Jolly Marina is supposed to be nice by the harbour – very modern. Hotel Bristol will valet park your car for you.

(written February 2005. Published: May 2005 ‘The Palazzo City’ Italian Magazine’