Rossese di Dolceacqua

When the Castle of Dolceacqua was built in the 12th century, the local Benedictine monastery were already tending vineyards in the region, along with fig trees. The Benedictines also introduced the cultivation of olives into the valley.

Originally the vineyards were nearer the river, enabling the vineyards to be irrigated and for the barrels to be transported easily down river.

As the vineyards moved higher up the hillside (bricco is the Piemontese word for top of the hill – but now used throughout northern Italy), allowing fruit and vegetables to be cultivated near the river and around the villages, large open water tanks were constructed up in the hills, many of which remain. See notes on Coteaux de Bellet using old water tank for their cellar.

In 1972, Rossese di Dolceacqua was the first Ligurian wine to obtain the D.O.C. (Denominazione di Origine Controllata). The DOC requires a minimum quantity of 95% of Rossese grapes, the remaining 5% can be made up of the Dolcetto and Ormeasco grapes.

Rossese here is a black grape, but there is also Rossese Bianco.

DNA tests carried out by Anna Schneider at the University of Turin have shown a strong link with the Tibourenc of Provence – the name possibly deriving from a corruption of Antibes – the port through which the grape variety was imported into Provence. 

Filipo Rondelli had the idea of creating a wine library at the castle in which to keep older vintages because the region needs to establish its credentials. Just tasting the odd older vintage (as at Testalonga) is not enough to show how the wines age. Originally Rossese di Dolceacqua were made and aged in oak, and some winemakers still have the old barrels. Rondelli feels that this clouds the purity of fruit flavour which he feels is very typical of Ligurian wine.

The local food is very focused on simple flavours. No red meat – lots of rabbit and goat. Stockfish, vegetables and Pigna beans. The Essence of the region lies in simple fresh food.

 

 

Some of the vineyards (Terre Bianche) are located at altitudes up to 400m above the sea level.

The climate is a unique mix of hot Mediterranean and cooler Alpine with cold winds coming down from the mountains which gives ripe fruit and good acidity and a big diurnal variation.

The soil is made up of large stones called locally Budingo – the equivalent of the Poudingue soil of Bellet, north of Nice.

The main growing areas are the Valle Nervia and Valle Verbone, with a very small amount of production up the Roya Valley. Differences between Nervia and Verbone hills are the soils (calcareous and stony soils), and the east – west exposure. The Verbone valley is also warmer as the cool alpine winds are blocked by the hill on which Perinaldo is situated.

The growing zone of the Rossese di Dolceacqua covers twenty-five villages. The westerly facing vineyards are hotter.

Valle Roya

• Mortola Superiore
• San Bartolomeo-Carletti
• Ville
• Calandri
• San Lorenzo
• Sant’Antonio
• Sealza
• San Bernardo
• Villatella
• Calvo San Pancrazio
• Torri
• Verrandi
• Calandria di Trucco

From South to North

Valle Nervia

Coolest valley, exposed to winds from the alps

• Apricale
• Camporosso
• Dolceacqua
• Isolabona
• Pigna
• Rocchetta Nervina
• Castelvittorio
• Baiardo

 Valle Verbone

Warmer valley, protected from the Alps by the hill of Perinaldo

• Vallecrosia
• Vallebona
• San Biagio della Cima
• Soldano
• Perinaldo

Many vines are over 100 years old having been planted just after the recovery from phylloxera. Yields from these vines are lower, but are a valuable part of the Rossese di Dolceacqua style.

The better sites are more often used for Superiore wines for 100% parcel bottlings:

• Luvaira (argile soil and westerly facing) – Anfosso, Maccario -Dringenberg and Foresti
• Poggio Pini (schist soil) – Anfosso, Poggio dell’Elmo
• Arcagna – Terre Bianchi, Testalonga
• Posau – Dringenberg
• Galaea – (schist, chalk and clay) 400m Ka Mancine
• Beragna – (schist, chalk and clay) 350-400mKa Mancine

Densities are very variable in relation to the land, and can range from 7,000 to 10,000 plants per hectare. Rossese is generally ready for harvest between late September and early October.

The old method of vinification involved the prolonged fermentation of must together with the skins and stems; some vineyards use an intermediate method with which the fermentation takes place in the presence alone with skins and for a limited period. This traditional method survives in some small family-run domains. Testalonga ferments and ages his wines in old 500l oak barrels

‘Rossese Dolceacqua superiore’, is reserved for wine with at least 13% and aged for at least a year, normally 12 months – the earliest release date is in November of the year following the vintage. Rich with a great depth of flavour and bouquet, it is similar in style to a good village Beaujolais/southern Burgundy Pinot Noir.