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Az Ag Antonio Perrino ‘Testalonga’

Via Mons Laura Dolceacqua. Tel 0184 20 62 67 No website

Antonio Perrino of Testalonga
Antonio Perrino of Testalonga presenting his wine at the annual Rossese di Dolceacqua tasting 23 June 2012

Perrino has been making wine since the early 1950s but he has no children and his nieces are not interested in carrying on the vineyard, so does not know what will happen to his domaine. Kept in old wood barrels (500l), natural yeast, very traditional wine making. The wine is fermented and aged in barrels. He is a small producer and because the wine remains in barrel until bottled, de does not have the space for the longer ageing of superior which has to be aged for 1 year. Also makes Vermentino Riviera Ligure di Ponente.

23rd June 2012 Dolceacqua

Classico 2010 Slightly oxidised. Old fashioned, liquorice taste. 17/20 Later in the cellar this wine seemed much fresher and fruitier – but with the same red fruit and floral character and very good acidity. Not a big robust style.

Classico 1973 This was opened to be tasted on camera – so a bit of bated breath as to whether the wine was drinkable or not. Pale tawny red in colour, it still had a powerful aroma of flower and summer fruit. The acidity was still very fresh, the tannins firm and mellow. A mature Burgundy sprang to mind. The freshness and elegance of this wine at this age was amazing – and I think would have lasted a few more years. Very impressive.

22nd May 2011 Bordighera

Arcagna 2009 Floral aromas, not sweet and perfumed but aromatic. Dry herby tannins and fresh acidity. Long and clean. 17/20

29th May 2010 Blind Tasting Dolceacqua

2008. Old privet, old, dried out. 13/20

14th May 2010

2008 Corked? No. Oxidised? No – colour still vibrant red. Aromas of herbs, thyme, strong herby, gamey, slightly rustic. Not good on its own but good with pasta and cheese. Good acidity. 15% alcohol only evident on final burn at back of throat. R: tait of sweetness, slightly unripe raspberries, floral notes. But not the soft black fruit we have noticed before. Sweet and sour, slightly tea tannins, black bitter chocolate. Overly long maceration? 13/20

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